| Set Die
Lever to End of Stroke 
- Assemble die holder, handle and die holder nut snugly.
- Insert into die hole and rotate lever counter-clockwise until
eccentric die contacts anvil.
- Slip die lever on die holder until a comfortable swaging
position is reached.
- Remove lever and die assembly. Tighten nut on die
holder. Then replace in die hole. Mark die lever to correspond with split in
die holder for ease of re-establishing setting and as a reference if die holder should
slip in lever.
- Move die lever forward until eccentric die contacts anvil.
- Move die lever back slightly (about 1/16"). Set
front stop by bringing it up against the die lever and tighten.
- It is important to set front stop to hold eccentric die away
from face of anvil to avoid damage to die or anvil.
| Set Front
Guide Arm Spring Screw |
 |
1. Set gap between end of the screw and
guide arm spring if it is desired to pull the tooth point down.
2. Pulling point down will permit heavier grinding on |
| back of tooth, if necessary to
maintain tooth shape. |
|
Set Anvil
To Gauge 
- Make sure anvil gauge number corresponds with swage
die. Example: No. 77 swage die uses a 77-G anvil setting gauge.
- Insert anvil setting gauge into die hole. Remove top
anvil screw and insert anvil into anvil hole. Tighten side anvil screw just until it
will hold anvil from falling out of anvil hole.
- Make sure you can turn the anvil setting gauge freely.
Continue turning anvil setting gauge, and begin to tighten top anvil screw. Tighten
until you feel a slight "drag" on setting gauge, and stop.
- Remove anvil setting gauge.
- Tighten side anvil screw.
DESCRIPTION
Armstrong hand swages have been an important part of the
filing room for literally decades. Each swage is made from the finest materials and
assembled by experienced craftsmen -- providing filers the accuracy and dependability they
require on the job. These tools, if kept clean and in good working order, will provide
years upon years of good, reliable service. Armstrong offers a complete line of swages to
accommodate an entire range of swage gauges and types. In addition, spare parts are
available for every swage Armstrong manufactures.
Backed by nearly 100 years of service to
the sawmill industry, and the commitment to stand behind every product we manufacture,
Armstrong swages are the first choice of saw filers worldwide.
DIE SELECTIONS: |
| Long |
The long
bite die is the mildest die, and produces the smallest kerf. |
| Short |
The short
bite die is the most frequently used for "average" conditions. |
| Extra Short |
The extra
short die is the most aggressive, giving the heaviest kerf. |
|
| MAINTENANCE Armstrong swages require very little up-keep.
The key to maintaining a good, accurate, reliable tool is weekly cleaning and lubricating
with a dry, non-abrasive spray. (Oil and grease can trap grinding grit which can lead to
premature wear.) Periodically check for looseness or wear, especially the swage die hole
and clamp screw threads. Keep the clamp screws free of pitch.
Swages have a number of parts that are
consumed during swaging and need to be replaced. Don't wait until you're having
difficulties. Keep spare parts on hand and use carbide whenever possible. Carbide |
parts last
longer, work better and cost less in the long run.
Steel anvils can be used one time on each
end. When the anvil is worn, flip it over "end-for-end" (do not rotate). Carbide
anvils can only be used once, however, they will usually last 8-10 times longer than
steel. When anvils wear down .001" (about the smallest amount you can
"feel") send in to Armstrong for regrinding.
Wipe the swage die down and inspect for wear
at least once a week. When the die shows signs of wear, move it over 1/4" (6mm)
minimum. |
| WHAT IF? WHAT IF I'M HAVING
A PROBLEM WITH TOOTH BENDING OR UNEVEN SWAGING?
One of the first places to check is the sharpener. About 1/2 of
all tooth bending/ uneven swaging problems result from grinding off-center or
out-of-square.
If the problem occurs after you have been
using the swage for a period of time, go back and reset-up the swage according to the
instructions provided for the initial setup.
For more detailed information, refer to Armstrong's Swage and
Shaper Troubleshooting Guide.
WHAT IF I'M
SEEING SOME "BLURRING" IN MY CLAMP SCREW MARKS?
It's probably time to replace your clamp screws. When doing so,
replace BOTH at the same time and send your anvil in for regrinding.
Order carbide parts whenever possible. Also, check the clamp screws for pitch build up.
They may just need a good cleaning.
A QUICK CHECK: Can you cut a
donut? Check the clamp screws by sliding a piece of paper between them and apply light
pressure. You should be able to cut a perfect donut shape. Do not clamp too tightly, or
you could damage your clamp screws.
WARNING: You are working in a
dangerous environment. To minimize risk of injury, keep work area clean and all tools in
good working condition. |
WHAT
IF I'M NOT GETTING ENOUGH KERF?
Are you using the correct die size for your particular
requirements? (Refer
to die selection chart.) Is your tool adjusted to provide maximum kerf?
TO ADJUST THE ANVIL FOR MAXIMUM KERF:
- set to the anvil setting gauge
- back the anvil away from the die 1/4 turn on the top anvil
screw
- reset the front stop on the die lever to engage 1/16"
before the die contacts the anvil
Most people will instinctively lower the
anvil into the die in an attempt to increase kerf. Backing the anvil AWAY
from the die and resetting the stop allows the die to "work" the saw for maximum
kerf.
WHAT IF THE DIE
HOLDER SLIPS INSIDE THE DIE LEVER CLAMPING SOCKET?
Remove or rough-up the plating on the inside of the die lever
clamping socket with emery paper. Remove all the oil between the die holder and socket.
Retighten.
For additional answers to commonly asked
questions, refer to Armstrong's Swage
and Shaper Troubleshooting Guide. |